The Canal du Centre in Burgundy by bike

Verdun-sur-le-Doubs provides a perfect place for cyclists to rest, such an attaching village, at the confluence of the impetuous Doubs River and much calmer Saône. But, perhaps after tasting a pôchouse (a dish of river fish in a white wine sauce), it’s time to head on along the cycle route, or rather, twin cycle routes, as EuroVelo 6 and La Voie Bleue continue to share the same path towards Chalon-sur-Saône, following the broad Saône, its valley stretching across an alluvial plain. As well as all the farming here, angling and boating are on offer, but cycling is of course among the top pursuits in the Saône Valley! At Gergy, enjoy a stop to contemplate the meander in the Saône before continuing up to Chalon-sur-Saône, a dynamic Burgundian town.

The way through the outskirts of Chalon-sur-Saône is well laid out for cyclists, allowing you to reach the Canal du Centre comfortably. Once you start pedalling along the green ribbon formed by the canal, signs of human presence are rare. You may notice the sound of barge engines, or of saws at the Bois de Curney sawmill. The hills stand out as you come to the renowned vineyards of the Côte Chalonnaise and Côte de Beaune wine-making areas. At the level of La Plaine de Rully’s canal port, or escale nautique, a splendid link leads to the château and wineries of Rully. Next comes Chagny’s port, followed by that of Santenay, below a lovely village built around its château, the whole place surrounded by vine-covered slopes.

Leaving Santenay, with lovely views of vine-covered hills spurring you on, this EuroVelo 6 stage leads you gently along beside the Canal du Centre. You’ll encounter anglers and boating parties, perhaps exchanging a friendly wave. You cross through a traditional, unspoilt, rural part of Burgundy heading for Montceau-les-Mines. The way is calm, dotted with little locks and picturesque villages. Although you may spot the odd vestige of an industrial site recalling bygone days, today this is a really delightful stage that provides a mix of countryside, industrial heritage transformed, and wonderful tranquillity. Montceau-les-Mines, as the name implies, was a town built to serve local mining; now, its cultural dynamism and dedicated canal-side facilities come as a nice surprise.

At the point where the areas of the Charolais, the Autunois and the Clunysois meet, EuroVelo 6 continues on through what has been nicknamed the Vallée de la Céramique, which begins at St-Léger-sur-Dheune. There are two remarkable industrial sites along this stage, the Lavoir des Chavannes (a massive disused coal washing house) beside the Bourbince at Montceau-les-Mines and the Briquèterie de Ciry-le-Noble (a brickworks). The atmosphere changes at Génelard, with a museum dedicated to the major watershed here. Then you need to tackle the slope towards the architectural gem of the Charolais area, the Château de Digoine. The final highlight is in Paray-le-Monial, a town dominated by its staggering Romanesque Sacré Coeur basilica. All told, this stage ends with an exceptional heritage display.

The waters of the Bourbince and the Canal du Centre run close to the centuries-old monastery of Paray-le-Monial, all providing a wonderful setting for a rest. After taking your time to explore the town’s parks, museums and monuments on foot, absorbing the calming atmosphere, time to ride off along EuroVelo 6. A couple of highlights on this watery stage are two remarkable navigable aqueducts, at Bourbince and Digoin. As to Bourbon-Lancy, you reach this thermal spa town with a rich history going back to medieval times via a cycle path running alongside the Canal Latéral à la Loire. Along the way, enjoy the traditional hedge-divided patchwork of fields of the Charolais bocage, passing verdant meadows and traditional villages. Come dinner, local dishes, especially those featuring Charolais beef, will help exhausted cyclists regain their strength.