La Régalante

You set out on your adventure south along the Régalante cycle route, starting from the Mont Saint-Michel. Leave behind the unforgettable silhouette of the famed island monastery on its rock, isolated in its vast bay. As this bay is subject to the biggest tides off continental Europe, the seascapes change dramatically across the day, with vast sandy and muddy tracts revealed by the outgoing tide. Riding off, admire the amazingly varied effects of the light, the skies mirrored in the bay’s waters. The cycle route leads you inland, through flat polder landscapes. A bit further on, you cross the little town of Antrain, riding beside rivers and traditional hedge-divided fields known as bocage. Enjoy the greenways and the bucolic surrounds that define this first stage. Maen Roch offers a relaxing place to pause, a stop where you can recharge your batteries… and those of your electric bike, if you’re using one!

From Maen Roch, the Régalante cycle route leads you gently onwards, via a greenway, through the countryside, but with vestiges of a remarkable railway heritage dotted along the way: the Gare de Saint-Germain-en-Coglès (an old station); level-crossing keepers’ cottages; tunnels; bridges; and even a giant mural on the theme of the railways. Reaching Fougères, see how this town is dominated by one of the key defensive castles built along the eastern Breton Marches. In fact, it boasts one of the largest medieval forts in Europe, well worth a visit. Parking your bike, head out by foot to explore the medieval quarter and linger a time at one of the café terraces looking onto the castle. This intense historic town is proud of its one thousand years of history and has plenty to appeal to visitors.

This stage of our cycle route links two iconic medieval towns guarding the eastern Marches of Brittany – Fougères and Vitré. Riding along a greenway, you meander through countryside, past a few lakes, notably Châtillon and La Cantache Lakes, great places to stop for a picnic. As on the stage to the north, look out for vestiges of the local railway heritage at the former stations at La Selle-en-Luitré and Châtillon-en-Vendelais. Your cycling terminus for this stage is the town of Vitré, dominated by its magnificent château – the iconic picture-postcard image for the whole trip along the Régalante cycle route. Vitré was a prosperous trading town as far back as the Middle Ages, and there’s a rich heritage to uncover exploring its streets. You might even consider staying here a day or two.

Relish a sweet sense of freedom along this stage of the Régalante cycle route, taking you mainly along a lovely undulating greenway between Vitré and La Guerche-de-Bretagne. Between these two historic trading towns, cyclists can enjoy peaceful stops at the likes of Argentré-du-Plessis, Torcé or Domalain, great for a picnic or a restorative little pause. Arriving at La Guerche-de-Bretagne, you’ll be surprised by the town’s beautiful, colourful timberframe houses, its collegiate church and its medieval-style kitchen garden. Note that on Tuesdays, the town comes fully to life with its bustling market, a tradition that’s been going strong for over 900 years. For cyclists, it offers a great opportunity for stocking up, making the most of the goodies on offer, gathering strength to continue on your cycling adventure.

It doesn’t take long to cycle through La Guerche Forest to reach the Pays de la Roche aux Fées, an area known for a startling neolithic, megalithic site, to be admired in the parish of Essé. In the surrounding countryside, you can spot water all around… and, should you possess special powers, the fairies that feature in the area’s name! Enchanted, you’ll arrive at Martigné-Ferchaud. After stocking up with provisions in this little town, it’s tempting to stop at the Étang de la Forge, a lake beside which you can picnic or even camp for the night, possibly dreaming of supernatural little people! In summer, festivities are organized beside the lake, notably an extraordinary theatrical fireworks display entitled Les Etincelles Aquatiques (beginning of August). Enjoy the opportunities available for a quite magical stop before continuing on the Régalante cycle route.

Thourie, an unspoilt little town, is an enticing place in which to try out all manner of local produce at the Saturday morning markets – one of the joys of the Régalante cycle route is the way cyclists can often pick up provisions out in the open… just a little like those professional cyclists with a musette food bag strung across their shoulder! Further on, the parish of Teillay conceals some lovely heritage surprises: the Mines de la Brutz, iron mines converted into a museum; the bucolic Parc Saint Eustache; and the Tombe à la Fille, a tomb in the woods related to a Revolutionary killing. Teillay is a great place to enjoy a rest, during which you can discover this local heritage and make the most of the shops. Once Thourie explored, it’s back on your bike to head to Châteaubriant for an evening in town, drinking in views of the place’s imposing château.

The Régalante cycle route certainly focuses a lot on medieval times in the Breton Marches. But 20th-century history also features along it, most notably with the Resistance group of the Maquis de Châteaubriant, whose part in the fight against Nazi occupation was powerfully recalled in the works of Breton poet René Guy Cadou. There are many visits to choose between here: the castle; the Carrière des Fusillés, a quarry where Resistance martyrs are remembered; the Musée Numérique Micro-Folie Châteaubriant, featuring digital displays of great works from the French national collections; and the Site des Étangs de Choisel, to appreciate the green surrounds here set around lakes, plus with outdoor sports possibilities within the grounds. At La Meilleraye de Bretagne, explore the unmissable Abbaye de Melleray (home to a vibrant modern religious community), along with the Parc des Lavandières, where you can enjoy a walk in nature. With so many places to discover, remember that you do have to cycle a bit in order to reach La Meilleraye de Bretagne!

As this Régalante stage runs close to a beautiful river, in hot weather cyclists will find it very refreshing. Plus, the major Lac de Vioreau reservoir is a good place to go for a swim if you’ve worked up a sweat. Another refreshing stop is Joué-sur-Erdre, on the banks of the Erdre and beside Vioreau Forest – the place has even been nicknamed “the little Canada of Loire-Atlantique county”, with shaded woods guaranteed! In fact, the Erdre River is never far off on this stage taking you via peaceful country roads. It’s a river that’s both natural, largely unspoilt and noble in looks, what with the extravagant little manors and châteaux (nicknamed ‘‘folies’’ here) dotted along its banks. Stop at Nort-Sur-Erdre to take in its marina and a country trail, the Circuit des Arcades, guiding you via aqueducts feeding the regional canal, as well as to make the most of the town’s many facilities. Next day, you can ride off for the big city of Nantes – or Naoned, as it’s known in the Breton language.

On the final stage of the Régalante, you share the way with the Vélodyssée cycle route, following the Canal de Nantes à Brest. En route, discover further charming ports along the Erdre River and savour the cultural and gastronomic scenes around the metropolis of Nantes, also known by its name in the Breton language, Naoned. In the city centre, the imposing forms of the Château des Ducs de Bretagne contain a major museum recounting the history of this port with its links across the world, while further museums and art works are dotted around town, including many giant art installations displayed in the open. Nantes, for a time the capital of the Duchy of Brittany, today provides a particularly wonderful variety of aspects for enjoying relaxed city life and culture. And if you wish to continue on further touring by bike from here, you’re spoilt for choice, as the city stands at a junction of several major cycle routes: the Loire à Vélo, the Vélodyssée, and the Vélidéale… so, this really is an ideal place from which to head out on further cycling adventures!