After a few kilometres of cycling between Brioude and Vieille-Brioude, the Via Allier cycle route finally takes you away from the Limagne plains. The way takes you up into the Ribeyre Valley, which benefits from its own micro-climate, imparting Mediterranean touches to the landscapes, enhanced by the evident wine-making traditions around here, what with all the terracing and the winemakers’ houses. The river, and the road running alongside it, guide you to spots with views of local villages boasting a significant local heritage, up to the Château de Saint-Ilpize, looking down on the Allier, then on to the village of Lavoûte-Chilhac, built in an exceptional meander.

The Via Allier cycle route looks down on the river here, offering lovely views from one meander to the next. The way gets harder as it crosses characterful villages that prove a pleasure to stop at. Chilhac, built at the top of a volcanic lava flow eroded down a very long time back by the Allier’s waters, boasts magnificent basalt columns. Arriving at Langeac, you reach the most southerly of the "bonnes villes d'Auvergne", the region’s long-established historic towns. This stage is only suitable for seasoned cyclists or those on e-bikes.

Your adventure along the Via Allier cycle route now takes a distinctly different turn. The way you’ve already ridden along may seem long, but it’s been pretty easy going so far, compared with the journey undertaken by wild salmon coming this far up the river from the Atlantic Ocean. Now, however, the views narrow and the Allier Gorges stand before you, rocky and wild in aspect, with the odd picturesque village dotted along the way. Do take the time to visit Chanteuges, with its abbey perched on a long-solidified section of lava flow, and Saint-Julien-des-Chazes, with its chapel dedicated to the Virgin Mary. Also don’t miss Prades, the highlight along this stage, overlooked by the Roche Servière, which offers a spectacular natural show on volcanology. This stage is only suitable for seasoned cyclists or those on e-bikes.

The Allier Gorges narrow and the Via Allier cycle route forces you to climb. This stage involves quite a shift in altitude, as you ride through demanding terrain, but the reward is magnificent views over the Allier, the Devès Mountains and the summits of the more distant Margeride. Great piles of rocks resembling castles oversee your progress. Make the most of a well-deserved stop at Saint-Privat-d'Allier, a village looking down on the Allier Gorges that epitomizes the stage. You may well meet different travellers in this village, in the form of pilgrims following the way to Santiago de Compostela. Note that this stage is only suitable for seasoned cyclists or those using e-bikes.

The Via Allier cycle route here leads you to explore the very heart of the Allier Gorges. You first ride along above the narrowest, most inaccessible section of the river. This true haven of peace means flora and fauna are undisturbed down there, just to be glimpsed occasionally as you pedal along. Descending to Le Pont-d'Alleyras, you rejoin the banks of the Allier. Views open up over the reservoir created by the Poutès Dam, overlooked by the Château de la Beaume. Take the time to enjoy the refreshing waterside stop, as a quite demanding climb awaits on the next stage.

Having relaxed a little and feeling reinvigorated, time to get going again on your adventure along the Via Allier cycle route. You’ll need to use those leg muscles to tackle the slopes up to the Devès volcanic plateau, crossing through exceptional, unspoilt, traditional natural parts. Enjoy the many views down onto the Allier Gorges, offering good excuses to stop and catch your breath, observing more closely the landscapes here, so marked by fire and water. At Saint-Haon, take the time for a little detour to the hamlet of Le Thord to enjoy exceptional views over the Allier Gorges and the viaduct at Chapeauroux.

You may be reaching the end of the Via Allier cycle route, but the hamlet of Le Nouveau Monde makes for a stunning start to this last stage. Located in the parish of Chapeauroux, the combination here of curving 19th-century railway viaduct and basalt cirque (or geological amphitheatre), dug out by the river over millions of years, makes for a glorious sight. Pedal beside the river and the Cévennes railway line for a time before climbing onto the Devès Plateau to reach the little medieval town of Pradelles, at the frontier between the Auvergne and Occitanie Regions.