Dolce Via

The little town of La Voulte-sur-Rhône is the starting point for the Dolce Via. Leaving the ViaRhôna cycle route, ride into the Eyrieux Valley, following in the shadow of an historic steam train line. In fact, starting in the midst of peach orchards, you set off along a former railway line. The slope is gentle leading to Les Ollières-sur-Eyrieux, the way spectacular. With fine views over the valley, its river and the perched villages on the opposite bank, this route proves enchanting from the very first. And you’ve only just begun!

Leading you through narrow gorges and tunnels and across viaducts, your bike trip along the Dolce Via here takes you on a journey through the past. Along the way, former mills and silk-weavers’ workshops reflect the former industrial wealth of this valley, once home to so many workers. Viewing points down on the Eyrieux are numerous and allow you some beautiful, contemplative stops. Below the greenway, the river’s generally tranquil waters invite you to halt. Pont-de-Chervil is an ideal spot at which to enjoy a refreshing pause mid-way along this stage. You gradually plunge into the Eyrieux Gorges, into nature shimmering orange and yellow in autumn, as chestnut trees dominate the scene in these parts.

On leaving Le Cheylard, the natural setting changes – the Dolce Via, following the Eyrieux’s course, enters the steep-sided Les Boutières Mountains. Today, the way by bike doesn’t prove a strain, but think back to the workers at the end of the 19th century having to build the railway line through here, creating a veritable technological prowess, given the steep terrain. The vestiges of this exceptional railway past include viaducts, tunnels, bridges and trenches dug out by hand, as you’ll see on your way up to Saint-Agrève. This stage may be spectacular, but it doesn’t present cyclists with any particular difficulties.

The natural setting changes markedly once again heading northeastwards. Your cycle route, still along greenways, makes you climb, but with each turn of the wheels, expect new wonders. Five viaducts, two bridges and three tunnels on, the mountainous landscapes of Les Boutières and the Monts d’Ardèche open up to you, the Mont Gerbier de Jonc and Mont Mézenc in the background. These views are a splendid reward as you reach the pass to cross through the mountains via Les Nonières Tunnel, the longest along the Dolce Via, its 320m well lit. For the final 12km, you can practically freewheel the whole way to Lamastre. Here, an iconic steam train awaits you, allowing you to enjoy the incomparable Gorges du Doux up to Tournon-Saint-Jean, back on the ViaRhôna cycle route.

This route offers a gentle way of cycling along the Payre, a small tributary of the Rhône, to reach the pleasant capital of the county of Ardèche. This beautiful greenway linked to the ViaRhôna cycle route has given a new lease of life to the former railway line up to Privas, renowned for producing marrons glacés (candied chestnuts). Entirely tarmacked and easy to cycle along, this short cycle path takes in many interesting works of engineering – tunnels, viaducts, bridges, footbridges, even hydraulic works. Plus there are some spectacular gorges through the rocks to admire beside this gentle cycle route.