La Vagabonde

The appealing, northern starting point for La Vagabonde cycle route is Montluçon, in the département (French county) of Allier. This mellow, musically-minded town is overseen by its ducal Bourbon castle. Wander through the medieval quarter below, seek out the exotic-style villas designed by architect Pierre Diot in the first half of the 20th century, and follow the melodious trail at the MUPOP (or MUsée des Musiques POPulaires). Our cycle route then proposes a gentle-paced start, this stage beginning with a 6km-ride along a comfortable, lovely greenway linking Montluçon to the little thermal spa resort of Néris-les-Bains. The rhythm then changes as you tackle the first hilly roads through the Combraille area, its landscapes offering a mix of hedge-divided fields, heathery moors and forests. The village of Chambonchard, crossed by the Cher River, marks your arrival in the département (county) of Creuse (boasting its own thermal spa resort, Evaux-les-Bains) as you head for Chambon-sur-Voueize, a green town set beside a crystal-clear river.

From Chambon sur Voueize, renowned for its imposing Romanesque abbey church of Sainte Valérie, dating back to the 11th century, cycle out into the heart of the countryside, passing one lake after another as you cross the Tardes Valley. Starting by climbing into the surrounding hills, enjoy panoramic views over the river, the abbey church and the town’s terraced gardens. This stage of La Vagabonde cycle route incites contemplation. For further marvels, press on to the Voueize Gorges. Along this stretch of cycle path sticking close to water, nature lovers will particularly enjoy the Étang des Landes, a lake classified as a Nature Reserve in 2004, as well as the Étang de la Naute. The atmosphere changes arriving at the historic town of Aubusson, internationally renowned as France’s tapestry-making capital.

From Aubusson, on the route de la Tapisserie to Felletin, a 46 km stage that follows in the footsteps of Tour de France legends. Royère de Vassivière, overlooking Lake Vassivière, offers wide-open spaces for cycling in an exceptional environment. The 23.5 km "circuit des légendes" takes you around the lake, a large part of which was used during the 3 time trials (1985: Greg Lemond victory, 1990: Erik Breuking victory, 1995: Miguel Indurain victory) of the Tour de France held in Vassivière. The great men of cycling who have competed on the roads of Vassivière wanted this circuit to pay tribute to the iconic champion Raymond Poulidor, who was born in Creuse, just a few kilometers from Bourganeuf. Today, his grandson, Mathieu Van der Poel, Road World Champion 2023, continues the family tradition!

At the Lac du Chammet, you reach the département, or county, of Corrèze and can explore some of the Plateau de Millevaches, a major northern upland of Massif Central (France’s central-southern mountainous zone), reaching almost 1,000m in altitude. This area has been nicknamed ‘‘France’s water tower’’; not only is it covered in lakes and peatbogs, but many significant rivers also rise here, notably the Vézère, Vienne, Corrèze and Creuse. This distinctive area is great for cycling adventures, riders able to enjoy both unspoilt landscapes and the feeling of freedom they impart. The way is dotted with small heritage delights, such as plank-bridges, Gallo-Roman vestiges and carved stone Christian crosses, as well as the low stone walls dividing up many fields. There are dense forests of deciduous trees and pines, and moors, peatbogs and prairies, making for varied landscapes. Many migrating birds appreciate these parts. Looking skywards, you may even spot a short-toed snake eagle!

From Bugeat, your cycling adventure along La Vagabonde cycle route continues through the Massif des Monédières, a granite upland characterized by dry moorlands, classified a Natura 2000 zone for its exceptional fauna and flora. This distinctly steep stage leads you by bike right up to the summit of the Massif du Suc au May (at 908m), then on to the Puy de la Monédière (at 922m), affording you spectacular views. At this altitude, look across the plateau and down the valleys of various streams and rivers, including the Corrèze. On clear days, you can even see the ancient volcanic heights of the Cantal, to the east in the Auvergne. Drink in the fresh air in these peaceful natural surrounds. What’s more, the cycle route takes you to one of the most recent time-trial locations in the Tour de France, between Lestards and Chaumeil, a stretch that will give your legs a good work-out!

La Vagabonde cycle route now leads you into the narrow, green, lively Doustre Valley. You’ll be won over by its magnificent landscapes marked by layer upon layer of hills as you follow the riverbed by bike. Next, from Argentat-sur-Dordogne, the cycle route clings to the famed Dordogne Valley, its ‘‘bassin’’, or catchment area, designated the largest UNESCO biosphere reserve in France, covering 24,000km2 of unspoilt countryside. Cycling beside the river, as well as marvelling at the valley’s magical landscapes, admire its idyllic built heritage. You cycle through a series of villages designated Cités de Caractère, La Roche-Canillac, Argentat-sur-Dordogne and Beaulieu-sur-Dordogne, the last also recently designated a member of the association Les Plus Beaux Villages de France.

Leaving behind the shaded, wooded roads of the département (county) of Corrèze, La Vagabonde cycle route now guides riders along bucolic little country roads often used by farmers in the northern part of the département of the Lot. Before re-joining the magnificent Dordogne Valley, you ride through long-established farmland marked by walnut orchards. From the village of Gluges, a first slope with a pretty stone wall guarding one side of the road enables you to meander up above the valley. Next, follow the way to Lacave, its name making clear that this parish conceals one of the most remarkable caves in the Lot. Leaving Lacave, a long, challenging slope takes you up to the splendid pilgrimage village of Rocamadour, drawing tourists from around the globe. You find yourself at the top of the cliff on the north side of the village, enjoying amazing views down on the Alzou Valley and the religious shrine clinging to the cliff. An unmissable place to visit along this cycle route, explore its medieval lanes, walk along the castle ramparts and pay your respects to the Black Virgin. Rocamadour’s religious shrine has been classified as part of a UNESCO World Heritage Site devoted to Santiago de Compostela pilgrimage sites.

La Vagabonde cycle route gradually distances itself from the Dordogne Valley, leading cyclists into the Parc Naturel Régional des Causses du Quercy with its distinctive, rocky atmosphere – this park has been classified a UNESCO Geopark for its exceptional geology. As well as the extensive limestone plateaus that characterize the area, it also boasts steep green valleys enclosed by high cliffs. Having tackled a stretch along the Causse du Quercy by bike, crossing several villages, you then ride down into the secretive Vers Valley. Cutting north-south through its causse, this tributary of the Lot River has carved out a path from Labastide-Murat to its confluence with the Lot River at the village of Vers. Along the way, crossing the villages of St-Martin de Vers and St-Sauveur la Vallée, stop to drink in their atmospheres. Finally, follow the Lot Valley to reach Cahors, designated a Ville d’Art et d’Histoire for its cultural riches, and capital of the département, or county, of the Lot. This little city boasts a southern atmosphere, rich historical vestiges and many culinary treats!

Now you cycle through the area of the Quercy Blanc, heading for Lafrançaise in the département, or county, of Tarn et Garonne. Starting in the southern part of the département of the Lot, the Quercy Blanc has been nicknamed ‘‘Little Provence’’, quite appropriately, as you’ll see. Here, white stone and limestone paths sparkle in the sun, the latter helping produce fine melons, sunflowers, vines… and lavender. This area with its gently undulating hills remains dominated by farming, with few woods, but orchards everywhere. Through spring and summer, lavender, sunflowers, broom, poppies and orchids stretch out colourfully as far as the eye can see, while in autumn the oaks, maples and vines turn orangey-brown. La Vagabonde cycle route crosses Labastide Marnhac, passes in front of the Moulin de Boisse and then brings you close to the medieval bastide town of Castelnau-Montratier. As to Lafrançaise, it’s another historic bastide town, founded at the end of the 13th century, boasting a rich heritage and a belvedere over the Tarn Plain. It’s also a place that incites cyclists to enjoy a rest.

Leaving behind the medieval bastide town of Lafrançaise on its promontory, La Vagabonde cycle route leads you across the Aveyron River via the submersible ford at Piquecos. You then ride through orchards stretching across the Tarn Plain. Montauban, designated a Ville d’Art et d’Histoire for its cultural riches, is one of the best-preserved, most significant of the grid-plan bastides, or ‘‘new towns’’, built across southwest France in medieval times. It’s a great place for cyclists to enjoy a rest. Montauban is known as southwest France’s second ‘‘ville rose’’ (‘‘pink city’’) after the regional capital, Toulouse. Pink to ruddy brick dominates in town, notably around the renowned main square, Place Nationale. Pink dominates too in the rooftiles of the fine merchants’ homes built on the back of the long-thriving regional trade in woad, for making blue dye. Also in the distinctive local brick, seek out the Église Saint-Jacques, the historic Collège, and the fine arts museum, the Musée Ingres Bourdelle, as well as admiring the Pont Vieux, the main bridge over the Tarn River. From Montauban, the cycle route proves untaxing, following the Canal de Montech. One curiosity at the end is the Montech Canal’s inclined plane, an engineering feat operating on cables, built to transport barges mechanically up and down a 13m drop, replacing the previous system of five locks in a row. A trail dotted with surprises guides you to the Machine, or engine room, for the inclined plane, plus there’s a barge turned immersive, playful exhibition space.