La Voie Bleue - Moselle-Saône valley by bike

On this first stage along La Voie Bleue in France, leave Sierck-les-Bains and its château built for the Dukes of Lorraine by following the meandering Moselle. Towards Contz-les-Bains, at a bend in the river, vine-covered slopes suddenly appear. The cycle route continues beside the waterway, crossing typical Lorraine villages. The inauguration of the extra-wide lock at Kœnigsmacker in 1956 enabled riverboats from the Rhine Basin to transfer to the Moselle. Reaching Thionville, Basse-Ham Base Nautique, a boating and water-sports centre set in green surrounds, provides cyclists, campers and sailors with all the facilities they could need.

After Thionville, La Voie Bleue slips away from this well-fortified town with its two lock bridges, masterpieces of military engineering. You then pass industrial heritage, cycling past Illange Port, France’s leading river port for metallurgical products, followed by the U4 blast furnace, a rare monument from the 20th century’s steel industry to have been transformed into a cultural and heritage centre. Reaching the city of Metz, the cycle route crosses pretty lakes and wetlands. Take the time to wander around Metz’s historic centre before continuing on your trip; St Stephen’s Cathedral and the Centre Pompidou-Metz modern art museum count among many unmissable sights in this, the capital of the Lorraine region.

South from Metz, La Voie Bleue alternates between the Moselle and a series of lakes before reaching Jouy-aux-Arches and its Roman aqueduct. Take in the Rochers de la Fraze boulders, as well as the vine-covered slopes at Ancy-Dornot. Arnaville marks your arrival in the département (or French county) of Meurthe-et-Moselle. From Pagny-sur-Moselle, the route runs peacefully parallel to the Canal Latéral à la Moselle, up to Pont-à-Mousson. This town boasts fine architectural treasures, such as its triangular square, Place Duroc, and the magnificent Prémontrés Abbey.

Along this La Voie Bleue stage, you reach the confluence of the Moselle and Meurthe Rivers, the latter leading you to the gates of the historic ducal town of Nancy. This city is a gem at which to stop, with its three splendid 18th-century squares listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, including the most famous, Place Stanislas. However, there is another option – at Custines, you can embark on a route bypassing Nancy, taking you via the Boucle de la Moselle, enabling you to discover the AOC des Côtes de Toul vineyards and the little medieval town of Liverdun.

La Voie Bleue’s route leads you out of Nancy along a lovely green corridor close to the Meurthe River and its parallel canal. You rejoin the Moselle via a connecting canal, going past the magnificent Château de Montaigu and its grounds. Back by the Moselle, the route continues to Charmes via an unspoilt, bucolic stretch. Riding merrily along the towpath beside the Canal des Vosges, a highlight along this portion is the canal bridge at Flavigny-sur-Moselle.

After Charmes, La Voie Bleue meanders along a magnificent greenway beside the Canal des Vosges. Vestiges of the area’s industrial textile heritage are clearly visible along this stage, notably with the former Nomexy textile mill, built in red brick, and the impressive Rotonde de Thaon-les-Vosges, built for workers to relax in. A peaceful path leads to the port at Épinal, known in France as the ‘Cité de l'Image’, because of its tradition of producing popular images of French life, its museum containing the largest collection of such illustrations in the country.

From Épinal, La Voie Bleue changes in nature; now, you ride along an unspoilt part of the route, following the greenway beside the Canal des Vosges. After cycling beside Bouzey Lake (a reservoir built to supply the Canal des Vosges), then savour the bucolic setting that follows, with very lovely vistas created by the way the centuries-old ash trees were planted here. Before arriving at Bains-les-Bains, stop to admire the Manufacture Royale (where tinware was once made), visible from the greenway.

Leaving the Vosges thermal spa resort of Bains-les-Bains, continue on your picturesque adventure, riding along the Canal des Vosges and the Coney Valley. This stage of La Voie Bleue crosses the Vosges Forest, characterized by spruce, beech and maple. Once in the département (or French county) of Haute-Saône, cycling along the verdant ribbon of the canal, you come across the unusual manual swing bridge at Selles that makes it easy to let boats through.

Along this stage, La Voie Bleue runs beside the Saône, gradually rising above the river. This part of the route may prove quite demanding, but it has grandeur. At Jussey, the many washhouses and fountains contribute to the charm of this village, designated a Cité de Caractère Bourgogne - Franche-Comté. Leaving Jussey, there’s an impressive descent, while the view of the surrounding hills is panoramic. Enjoy a stop at the river port of Fouchécourt to admire the Saône and recharge your batteries before heading on to Port-sur-Saône and its marina. This place has a rich history, long serving as a tourist crossroads along the Saône.

From Port-sur-Saône, La Voie Bleue cycle route heads off along unspoilt meanders in the Saône, in the direction of Ray-sur-Saône, a pretty village designated a Cité de Caractère Bourgogne-Franche-Comté. Scey-sur-Saône, along with its islands, makes for a restful stop, close to the St-Albin Tunnel, 681m in length, dug in the mid-19th century under Napoleon III’s reign. Rupt-sur-Saône’s keep and the château at Ray-sur-Saône are unmissable sights marking your route. The river port at Ray-sur-Saône can offer all the comforts for a well-deserved rest beneath the elegant castle dominating the Saône Valley from its rocky promontory.

Leaving behind the grounds of the Château de Ray-sur-Saône, La Voie Bleue cycle route descends rapidly to a stretch of the Saône Valley set in pretty surrounds marked by farmland, woods and hills. Enjoy contemplating the steady flow of boats negotiating the Savoyeux Tunnel. Keen on a swim? Head for the sandy beach at Autet, with lifeguards on duty. The river port at the town of Gray is striking, its extensive stone quays reflecting the intense trading activity that went on here down the centuries. Fortunes were made and beautiful houses built on both banks of the river, giving Gray a remarkable architectural heritage.

You leave Gray and its history-packed quays via a towpath hugging the Saône. The way is then dotted with very appealing river ports. La Voie Bleue continues into the Burgundian département (or French county) of Côte-d’Or, passing fishermen’s cottages and slipways for launching boats, recalling how well used the river has been through time. The Château de Talmay and its impressive keep dominate their village. The final stretch of this stage is entirely along a towpath leading to Pontailler-sur-Saône, with its many shops and activities on offer.

Leaving Pontailler-sur-Saône, this La Voie Bleue stage alternates between the banks of the Saône and small country roads. Enjoy a stop at Vielverge or Soissons-sur-Nacey to discover the local flora and fauna. After Flammerans, the route rejoins the banks of the Saône. Revel in the majestic arrival at the port of Auxonne, surrounded by fortifications designed by Louis XIV’s great military engineer, Vauban, and looking onto the Saône.

La Voie Bleue cycle route leaves Auxonne’s fortifications behind, taking you via quiet little roads through the Burgundy countryside. You now encounter the EuroVelo 6 cycle route, and the Canal du Rhône au Rhin, which leads you gently back to the banks of the Saône. Following the east bank, as you come up to St-Jean-de-Losne, you get a wonderful view onto this port with its fine riverside quays. This makes for an unmissable stop along the route.

Your cycling adventure continues after a last look back at France’s foremost river port. This stage of La Voie Bleue then meanders between river and countryside. Along the way, you encounter the impressive Canal de Dérivation de la Saône (a bypass canal) before rejoining the Saône and reaching the peaceful port of Seurre. From Pagny, it is possible to reach the Abbaye de Cîteaux via quiet little roads. It’s some 12km to get to this abbey, where the Cistercian Order was founded in 1098.

Along this stage taking you between the Saône and Doubs Rivers, La Voie Bleue once again shares the way with the EuroVelo 6 cycle route. Leaving Seurre, admire its splendid buildings, including the historic hospital built by the Saône. You then wander along small country roads, crossing the flood plain between the two rivers. Admire the distinctive bell-towers around here, indicating you’re on Burgundy’s border with the Franche-Comté Region. Reaching Verdun-sur-le-Doubs, you’ll fall for the charm of this historic village, boasting beautiful homes, plus its Saint-Jean Bridge.

Verdun-sur-le-Doubs is where the Saône’s waters are joined by those of the Doubs. As the Saône widens, La Voie Bleue’s track takes you through picturesque riverside stretches. You turn towards Chalon-sur-Saône, a cultured town marked not just by the Saône but also by the Canal du Centre. The Musée Nicéphore Niépce is a must, dedicated to the Frenchman haled as the inventor of photography.

Leave the lively town of Chalon-sur-Saône following the Voie Bressane greenway up to Ouroux-sur-Saône before rejoining your original guiding thread – the Saône. The river now reveals a more unspoilt side as you ride through a protected zone. Along the way, make the most of the lovely, well-laid-out riverside stop at Gigny-sur-Saône. This stage finishes at Tournus, a town that grew up around its celebrated abbey, but which is now as well known for its gastronomic restaurants.

Leaving the soaring bell-towers of Tournus Abbey behind you, you can race along La Voie Bleue cycle route beside the Saône, past anglers and sailors. You soon find yourself at the foot of the excellent Mâconnais vineyards. How can you resist a tasting of Viré-Clessé, Montbellet or Uchizy on the way? Fleurville and its lake offer a lovely spot at which to relax and enjoy outdoor leisure activities. If more attracted by culture and gastronomy, there’s a link to Pont-de-Vaux you can take along a canal.

On this stage you cruise along the foot of the Mâconnais area’s vineyards right up to the centre of Mâcon town. Dotted with charming villages, each built around a Romanesque church, this stage of La Voie Bleue really hugs the river. Mâcon town offers a fine blend of culture and heritage, plus lively terraces overseen by colourful facades, with fine restaurants and wines to sample… there are many discoveries to savour here!

Leaving Mâcon, you start to feel the pull of southern France as you race straight southwards towards Thoissey. Having made the most of visiting this town’s historical and archaeological sites, La Voie Bleue leads you along the east bank of the Saône. Around here, you pass through natural landscapes marked by wetlands and poplar plantations, home to many species of birds. This stage of the route also offers lovely views on the Mâconnais and Beaujolais hills. Along the way, stop at the restaurant at Port de By or at the outdoor leisure lake at Cormoranche-sur-Saône.

From Thoissey, head for Trévoux by bike, enjoying the natural setting of the towpath down the Saône Valley, the Beaujolais hills opposite. Along the route, several unmissable cultural and gastronomic sites compete for your attention. If a fan of water sports, try canoeing on the river, or going for a dip in the Saône at one of the specially laid-out spots. Visit the remarkable châteaux in these parts, and eat at the outdoor summer riverside restaurants, guinguettes. Trévoux is a little old town full of surprising discoveries – this was once historic capital of the tiny Principality of Dombes.

On this La Voie Bleue stage, savour the last stretch of the Saône before it joins the Rhône. From Trévoux to Lyon, southern capital of French gastronomy, enjoy views of the Monts d’Or hills and the Saône’s holiday atmosphere, with its waterside restaurants and nautical activities. Entering Lyon, the riverbanks are well laid out. Finally, you come to the Saône’s confluence with the Rhône, marking a sensational end to your cycling adventure, or a stopping point before continuing to the Mediterranean on the ViaRhôna cycle route. Lyon’s contemporary Confluence Quarter stands out for its funky architecture and cultural venues, adding a new facet to this city whose historic quarters have been designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Seek out a fine restaurant, maybe a traditional Bouchon Lyonnais, and make the most of the innumerable activities on offer in France’s third-largest city.