La Flow Vélo

The Flow Vélo now starts in Sarlat-la-Canéda, capital of the Périgord Noir region. The cycle route joins the valleys of the Chironde and Coly rivers. The bucolic landscapes of the Périgord accompany you all the way along little-travelled roads. Typical Périgord villages punctuate the stops along the way, and everywhere, in season, you can enjoy local produce, whether at a restaurant or strolling through the market. Once you've reached your destination, the most curious cyclists can extend their stopover by discovering Lascaux IV or the ancient town of Terrassson-Lavilledieu... just a few kilometers away.

Enjoy the bucolic landscapes of the Dordogne, particularly around the Château de Peyraux, surrounded by its green landscape. In the Elle valley at Villac, with its forests as far as the eye can see, you may catch sight of mouflons and red sandstone buildings. Along the way, park your bike and visit Saint-Robert, one of France's most beautiful villages. Stroll through its medieval streets, admire its Romanesque church and stop off at a quaint café for a local pastry. The Château de Hautefort dominates the surrounding countryside, and the Musée d'Histoire de la Médecine, in the same architectural style as the Château, now houses a museum with an impressive collection (6,500 objects). Around Hautefort, you're in the heart of AOC Noix du Périgord and Canard Gras country. A number of farms offer tastings of 100% local produce. Take a short detour to Saint Raphaël, a pretty little hilltop village, and admire the view from its panoramic viewpoint before returning to Excideuil.

This stage of the Flow Vélo plunges you into the heart of the natural beauty of the Dordogne and Périgord Vert. In Excideuil, you ride along the banks of the Loue. You'll need to put your feet up to stroll through the medieval town. Built by the Viscounts of Limoges, the Château d'Excideuil is a strategic site from which to watch over the passage from Périgord to Limousin. On Thursdays in Excideuil, the heart of the town becomes pedestrianized, and the colorful market is a must for lovers of local gastronomy. Continue into the heart of Périgord Vert! You'll cycle uphill and downhill, taking in many viewpoints and river banks... Once you're in Thiviers, stop to enjoy the town's many shops. A stopping-off point on the Chemin de Compostelle, Thiviers was surrounded by ramparts in the Middle Ages, its elevated position making it a sentinel, and a few buildings from this era still stand scattered along its narrow streets.

This stage invites you to dive deep into the natural beauty of the Dordogne and Périgord Vert. You set off on a lovely greenway through shaded woods, leading you gently to Saint-Pardoux-la-Rivière. Don’t miss the little detour to see the picturesque village of Saint-Jean-de-Côle, with its half-timbered homes, plus the Château de la Marthonie, transporting you to a different era. After the greenway, the route follows quiet country roads in bucolic settings up to Nontron, a town renowned for its cutlery-making, perched above the Bandiat Valley.

This stage of La Flow Vélo will delight those of you who appreciate nature and tranquillity. The cycle route crosses the villages of Saint-Martin-le-Pin, Jommelières and Javerlhac. You pass right under the 16th-century Château de Javerlhac, a listed French historic monument. Then you enter the département (or French county) of Charente at Souffrignac. Here, check out the organic produce at the Jardins du Bandiat. The route continues along the greenway La Coulée d’Oc, traversing farmland and woods.

La Flow Vélo now heads for Angoulême, French capital of comics and drawing. Following Le Bandiat’s valley, the Coulée d’Oc greenway provides a tranquil route through the countryside and little villages embellished with beautiful Romanesque churches. At Chazelles, the Grottes du Quéroy provide a refreshing stop, with their underground maze of caves. The cycle route then meanders towards Angoulême, going along the Touvre – it’s worth exploring this river’s surprising sources.

The Charente River now becomes the main thread on your journey along La Flow Vélo. The route takes you gently out of Angoulême, French comics capital, keeping to the riverside. Then it leads you up to slopes featuring the first vines of the Pays de Cognac area. The sweet-toothed might stop at Letuffe chocolate-makers’ at Trois-Palis. While up on the slopes, savour the lovely viewpoints before dropping down to Saint-Simeux, a village with lovely houses and gardens practically bathing in the Charente. Just before Châteauneuf-sur-Charente, the Bain des Dames boasts a lovely beach where you can enjoy the river to the full.

Taking you through the heart of the Charentais vineyards, La Flow Vélo zigzags between river and vineyards. The neat lines of cognac-making vines contrast with the wild islands in the Charente. A detour to Jarnac is very much worth while. Producing cognac spirit made the town’s fame, added to by the fact that François Mitterrand (French President from 1981 to 1995) was born here. On Quai de l’Orangerie, picture how boats were once filled with cognac barrels before sailing down the Charente. Further on, after a big meander in the river, the town of Cognac itself comes into view, full of history and heritage. Break your journey here and visit some famous cognac-makers, sampling the refined local spirit.

Riding off along the town of Cognac’s quays makes for a fine start to the next stage of La Flow Vélo. Along this bucolic stretch, you’ll encounter several tributaries of the Charente River heading for the town of Saintes. Little chain-operated ferries enable you to cross the waters at Rouffiac and Chaniers in a fun way, plus there are simple riverside inns (guinguettes) to enjoy. The cycle route continues on through riverside flood meadows to Saintes, a place boasting 2,000 years of history for you to explore. Wandering around the streets on foot is the best way to take in the many sights of this deeply historic town going back to Gallo-Roman times.

After Saintes, you feel the pull of the ocean. The rivers become tidal and there are regular river ports along the way, great places to halt at. This stage, though, mainly takes you through countryside a bit away from the Charente River. However, Port d’Envaux and the châteaux of Panloy and Crazannes will stop you in your tracks. Then you arrive at Saint-Savinien-sur-Charente, nestled in its meander. Take a break here and savour the charm of this village, one of the most picturesque in the county of Charente, designated a Petite Cité de Caractère. Imagine how beautifully-cut stone from the surrounding quarries was once shipped out from here to Ghent, Antwerp and even London.

Leaving Saint-Savinien, you first repeat a bit of the way from the end of the previous stage, then head through fields and villages along pretty stretches of the towpath beside a little canal parallel to the Charente River. Switch bank just before Cabariot to reach Tonnay-Charente and its striking 19th-century suspension bridge. La Flow Vélo next adopts the same path as La Vélodyssée cycle route up to the river port of Rochefort. At Rochefort, discover, on foot, this town’s exceptional Ancien Régime maritime past, clearest at the majestic Corderie Royale ropery and the life-size replica of Lafayette’s frigate, L'Hermione.

Escape Rochefort’s arsenal for the last stage of La Flow Vélo, the sea’s influence increasingly evident. The route hugs the final few kilometres of the Charente River, with a unique crossing via a transporter bridge, one of the few still in use in France. You continue beside wetlands before the Atlantic comes into view. Pedal along the final stretch to Fouras to the rhythm of the ocean waves. Extend your adventure to nearby Aix Island, taking your bike on the ferry, arriving on a little crescent of land dotted with whitewashed houses, beautified by hollyhocks… plus you can enjoy fabulous views of the Charente Estuary and Fort Boyard, an island prison turned sensational TV show setting.