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Déménager à vélo : de Lyon à Berlin !

Une aventure de plusieurs mois de la France jusqu'à l'Allemagne

J’ai réalisé mon premier voyage à vélo avec un ami en 2014, pour rallier Amsterdam au cap nord en Norvège. L'expérience aura été extraordinaire, je me suis donc empressé de faire découvrir le voyage à vélo à Morgane peu après l’avoir rencontré il y a deux ans.

Elle a envie d’essayer l'expérience de vivre à l'étranger, on en discute et je me suis motivé aussi mais...je lui propose d’y aller à vélo !

Nous décidons donc de quitter nos boulots respectifs, de rendre les clés de notre appartement et de partir à l'aventure !

Morgane & Pierre de enrouelibre.fr racontent leur périple à vélo de Lyon à Berlin

Préparatifs et matériel

Préparatif avant voyage à vélo

Nous passons 3 mois à préparer le voyage, l'itinéraire et à acheter de l'équipement. Ce qui ne nous facilite pas la tâche est que Morgane travaille jusqu'à deux semaines avant le départ et moi j’ai le GR20 trois semaines avant. Nous faisons donc au mieux mais savons que tout n’est pas parfait !

Un long weekend de départ avec tous les copains nous permet de faire de beaux au revoir et de trinquer une ultime fois sur Lyon avant un moment.

De Lyon à Nevers

Des copains nous accompagnent les quatre premiers jours du voyage, ce qui nous permet de quitter notre vie lyonnaise en douceur. Le premier stop se déroule chez mon père, vers Macon. Nous passons une super soirée avec tout le monde avant les "au revoir" et c’est reparti sur nos fidèles montures.

Les débuts sont difficiles physiquement, d’autant qu'en Bourgogne à vélo, au milieu des vignes : ça grimpe sec!

Heureusement, notre coloc' qui nous accompagne nous aide à pousser les vélos.

Nous évitons les grands axes et naviguons un peu à vue pour rejoindre Nevers, les pistes cyclables étant rares dans le coin.

De Nevers à Orléans sur la Loire à vélo

Enfin de belles pistes cyclables !

Le voyage à vélo décidément c’est quand même bien plus sympa quand on a de belles infrastructures dédiées, plutôt qu’avoir des sueurs froides avec les voitures qui nous frôlent.

Le tout début de La Loire à Vélo nous fait nous rendre compte combien ce fleuve est impressionnant et majestueux. Nous essayons de prendre nos marques petit à petit : je cuisine, Morgane monte le campement... Au petit matin nous rangeons tout et repartons. Et le lendemain, tout recommence. On se recrée une routine qui fait du bien !

Nous prenons beaucoup de plaisir à pédaler ici, tout est calme et reposant.

Les Châteaux de la Loire à vélo: d'Orléans à Angers

C’est la canicule, qu’il est difficile de rouler par ce temps. Nous avons adapté nos horaires : départ à 6h du matin pour profiter du peu de fraîcheur qu’apporte l’aube, puis petite pause sieste et repos jusqu’à 15-16h pour éviter le pic de chaleur.

Bizarrement, c’est au plus fort que nous ferons notre plus grosse distance du voyage : 95 km !

L’ambiance le long de la Loire à vélo est vraiment sympa, on croise toujours les mêmes têtes le soir au camping et faisons de belles rencontres.

C’est la première fois que je fais les châteaux de la Loire, Morgane en a déjà fait quelques uns. Mais à vélo, ça a une toute autre saveur pour elle ! Nous prenons notre temps, faisant des détours pour rejoindre quelques châteaux : Chambord, Chaumont, Amboise, Saumur...Que de beaux souvenirs gravés !

La Vélo Francette : d'Angers jusqu'à Caen

Nous n’avions jamais entendu parler de La Vélo Francette, ce sont des amis fait en chemin qui nous ont accueillis chez eux et parlé de cette nouvelle voie cyclable.

Nous partons donc sans réelles attentes et nous sommes vraiment agréablement surpris !

Tout est vraiment naturel et les nombreux écluses s'intègrent parfaitement au paysage !

Suivre la Mayenne à vélo est un vrai bonheur, la piste sablonneuse très roulante est agréable et change du bitume de la Loire à vélo.

Hélas, un serpent croisé au détour d’un chemin va nous faire prendre une portion de train jusqu'à Caen, Morgane ayant une phobie des serpents. La fin de La Vélo Francette, ça sera donc pour une prochaine aventure !

La côte Normande à vélo par la Vélomaritime / EuroVelo 4

De Caen à Honfleur nous suivons des voies cyclables puis la côte normande en empruntant notamment La Vélomaritime.

Nous passons de petits villages en petit villages, c’est vraiment beau : Ouistreham, Honfleur, Deauville …

Nous faisons une petite pause chez ma cousine et des amis à Morgane à Rouen pour nous ressourcer. Que ça fait du bien de retrouver du lien et de rigoler avec les copains !

Un petit bout de train jusqu'à Dieppe puis nous longeons la côte d’Opale à vélo. Nous voyons de nombreux phoques se prélassant au bord de banc de sables, c’est vraiment sauvage !

Pour conclure ce beau périple ...

Une fois notre beau pays traversé, nous filons à travers la Belgique le long de l’EuroVelo 4 puis rejoignons Amsterdam. De la capitale hollandaise nous poursuivons jusqu'à Copenhague en empruntant une partie de l’EuroVelo 10. Notre dernière étape est également superbe : de Copenhague à Berlin une belle voie cyclable nous attends!

Nous arrivons finalement à Berlin fin Septembre 2019 après deux mois et demi d’aventures et 3100 km de vélo.

Nous sommes ici depuis 6 mois désormais et travaillons beaucoup sur notre blog pour conseiller les autres cyclotouristes avec notre retour d'expérience !

Pssst, nous prévoyons aussi déjà notre prochaine aventure en 2021...affaire a suivre !

Découvrir leur site web

Tailor-made itineraries

1 Nevers / Cuffy

13 km

53 min

I begin

Near the majestic Bec d’Allier (where the Allier River joins the Loire), Le Guétin’s canal-bridge makes quite an impression on this EuroVelo 6 stage leading on via Cuffy to the Loire à Vélo cycle route. The Canal Latéral à la Loire then acts as a link between Burgundy and the Loire Valley. This charming stage, starting at the unique city of Nevers, with its many services and shops, is almost entirely on greenways.

2 Cuffy / Marseilles-lès-Aubigny

15 km

1 h 01 min

I begin

This Loire à Vélo stage runs for some way right beside the Canal Latéral à la Loire, then moves onto a raised levée to reach Marseilles-lès-Aubigny. This charming port is a great spot to stock up on provisions, what with its shops, giving you a boost to continue cycling. This is a very easy stage, mainly along greenways.

3 Marseilles-lès-Aubigny / La Chapelle-Montlinard / La Charité-sur-Loire

12 km

47 min

I begin

This EuroVelo 6 stage leads you to the splendid riverside town of La Charité-sur-Loire, with its fabulous basilica and strong literary links. The route is easy and offers an inspiring concentration of Loire nature, culture and heritage. There are cycle tracks practically all the way along. Enjoy the exceptional views down on the Val de Loire Nature Reserve too.

4 La Charité-sur-Loire / La Chapelle-Montlinard / Couarges / Pouilly-sur-Loire

13 km

52 min

I begin

L’île du Faubourg, an island at La Charité-sur-Loire, provides an exceptionally scenic view of the Loire, on the frontier between Burgundy and Centre-Val de Loire, both regions famed for their wines. On this Loire à Vélo stretch through the heart of the Val de Loire Nature Reserve, enjoy the river’s wonderful shifting light. This stage is very easy, mainly on greenways.

5 Pouilly-sur-Loire / Couargues / Sancerre

11 km

42 min

I cycle often

This is a short, easy Loire à Vélo stage, encouraging you to enter Sancerre’s glorious hilly countryside and taste its famed wines. Here you can mix cycling with gastronomy and oenology, of course making sure you drink in moderation! A detour up to the historic town of Sancerre itself is highly recommended.

6 Sancerre / Beaulieu-sur-Loire

29 km

2 h 06 min

I cycle often

This Loire à Vélo stage, going along the eastern edge of the old French province of Berry, alternates between stretches beside the wild Loire and others alongside the Canal Latéral à la Loire. Between Léré and Belleville-sur-Loire, the heritage of centuries of river trade is everywhere to be seen. This stage is very easy, mainly sticking to greenways.

7 Beaulieu-sur-Loire / Briare

14 km

56 min

I begin

Travel by waterway has pride of place along this beautiful stretch of the Loire à Vélo. The highlight is Mantelot Lock by Châtillon-sur-Loire, where boats once gathered to cross the Loire, before the construction of the canal-bridge at nearby Briare. Lock and canal-bridge are both splendid constructions not to be missed. This section is easy, mainly on greenways.

8 Briare / Gien

12 km

49 min

I cycle often

The Briare canal-bridge is the highlight on this Loire à Vélo stage. The route then continues via hilly little roads to the town of Gien, renowned far and wide for its pottery. See how its haughty castle stands aloof above the town as you approach Gien via the Loire’s south bank. On this stage, several stretches are on roads with slopes.

9 Gien / Sully-sur-Loire

28 km

1 h 52 min

I cycle often

This Loire à Vélo stage runs in part beside the Loire. Here, you reach the eastern end of the stretch of the Loire Valley designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The medieval Château de Sully provides a brilliant introduction, guarding the river, surveying cylists as they pass by. Several stretches of the route are along roads, with some significant slopes.

10 Sully-sur-Loire / Germiny-des-Prés

16 km

1 h 03 min

I cycle often

Leaving the superb Château de Sully-sur-Loire behind, this Loire à Vélo stage follows the great meanders in the Loire to the city of Orléans. Glorious, calm halts here include the magnificent Abbey of St-Benoît-sur-Loire and the ancient church at Germigny-des-Prés. This is an easy stage, mainly on greenways.

11 Germiny-des-Prés / Jargeau

13 km

50 min

I cycle often

This Loire à Vélo stage sticks close to a great Loire meander leading to Châteauneuf-sur-Loire, a town with a museum dedicated to Loire mariners and trade. Lovely grounds planted with rare trees provide a peaceful place to stop. Continue to south-bank Jargeau via a raised levée affording lovely views across the Loire. The route is easy, on quiet roads and greenways.

12 Jargeau / Orléans

22 km

1 h 23 min

I begin

The dramatic skyline of the city of Orléans can be seen from afar, shifting with the meanders in the Loire as you draw closer. The outdoor sports and recreation centre of the Ile Charlemagne offers a green lung in the city, a place to relax before exploring this intense town. The route is easy, mainly on greenways.

13 Orléans / St-Hilaire-St-Mesmin

8 km

51 min

I begin

Gateway to the famed Loire Valley heartlands, once a capital in early medieval France, Orléans is now a lively modern city. It’s an ideal place to join the Loire à Vélo and EuroVelo 6 cycle routes. Whether heading upstream or down, it’s simple for cyclists to find the cycle paths leading to the Loire. This stage is as easy as it is enjoyable!

14 St-Hilaire-St-Mesmin / Beaugency

21 km

1 h 10 min

I begin

Once you’ve left Orléans’s suburbs behind, you reach the attractive confluence of the Loiret and Loire rivers. This stage of the Loire à Vélo and EuroVelo 6 runs in part along a raised Loire-side levée, looking over an agricultural plain used for market-gardening. Don’t miss Meung-sur-Loire et Beaugency, deeply atmospheric small historic towns.

15 Beaugency / Muides-sur-Loire

16 km

1 h 03 min

I begin

The contrast between the picturesque old Loire-side villages and the electricity power station at St-Laurent-des-Eaux shows how important the Loire has been for so many human activities, past and present. A lovely cycle path runs beside the river from Tavers to Avaray, offering a flat, easy stretch as you approach the Pays des Châteaux tourist area with its famed castles around Chambord and Blois.

16 Muides-sur-Loire / Blois

19 km

1 h 14 min

I begin

On this easy Loire à Vélo stage from Muides-sur-Loire to Blois, you enter the fabulous Pays des Châteaux tourist area, covering the lands around Chambord and Blois, boasting many famed châteaux. Choose between three more or less direct routes. The Loire à Vélo itself provides the most direct way, but the alternative, meandering circuits allow you to seek out great castles scattered across these unique landscapes.

17 Blois / Chaumont-sur-Loire

20 km

1 h 21 min

I begin

This Loire à Vélo stage takes you away from Blois along the Loire’s south bank, then a little further south to the village of Candé-sur-Beuvron via vine-covered slopes. Next, follow the River Beuvron back to the majestic Loire and the splendid Château de Chaumont-sur-Loire, perched above the river, with magnificent gardens and garden festival.

18 Chaumont-sur-Loire / Amboise

23 km

1 h 15 min

I begin

On this Loire à Vélo stage, enjoy exploring fine wine-making lands as well as the regal river. You’re now in the historic county of Touraine. Excite your taste buds by visiting wine estates, some with impressive underground cellars. As to your eyes, marvel at the glories of the Château d’Amboise and nearby Clos-Lucé, the latter last home to Leonardo da Vinci. There are a few slopes along the way.

19 Amboise / Montlouis-sur-Loire

15 km

1 h 01 min

I begin

On this Loire à Vélo stage, the soaring Chinese-style Pagoda of Chanteloup near Amboise offers a Zen experience. Next, on to the prestigious Montlouis appellation wine area. Discover the wide range of local whites in the cellars and restaurants around here. Don’t overdo it like Gargantua, the greedy fictional giant closely linked with Touraine! This stage is relatively easy for cyclists.

20 Montlouis-sur-Loire / Tours

12 km

1 h 02 min

I begin

This Loire à Vélo stage proves as delightful as it is easy, leading to the gentle capital of the county of Touraine, Tours. The microclimate at the confluence of the Loire and Cher rivers proves ideal for imparting unique qualities to the grapes of the exclusive Montlouis wine appellation. You can now explore this blessed corner of Touraine with ease thanks to the new greenway laid out beside the Loire.

21 Tours / Villandry

22 km

1 h 27 min

I begin

Touraine is known as ‘le Jardin de la France’ (The Garden of France) and Tours is a perfect central gateway for exploring it. This Loire à Vélo stage leads you along the south bank of the Cher River to the Château de Villandry, a major stop, with its world-famous gardens, before rejoining the Loire. Either side of Villandry are picturesque cycle paths leading to the great river. This stage proves extremely enjoyable.

22 Villandry / Rigny-Ussé

21 km

1 h 22 min

I begin

This is a star-studded Loire à Vélo stage, taking you from the glorious Château de Villandry, with its stunning gardens, on via the confluence of Loire and Cher rivers to the fairytale Château d’Ussé. On this stage, you cycle along a raised levée beside the Loire, allowing you wonderful views of the great river. This is a special stage, mainly along shared country roads.

23 Rigny-Ussé / Candes-St-Martin

25 km

1 h 35 min

I begin

This Loire à Vélo stage is marked by atmospheric islands in the Loire colonized by birds. At the Indre River’s confluence with the Loire, the setting is unspoilt. Further west, enjoy one of the most magnificent panoramas on the Loire à Vélo and Eurovelo 6 routes from gorgeous Candes-St-Martin, looking onto the confluence of Vienne and Loire rivers. This stage is easy, alternating between greenways and quiet country roads.

24 Candes-St-Martin / Saumur

17 km

1 h 12 min

I begin

This Loire à Vélo stage from Candes-St-Martin to Saumur takes you from Touraine into the famous neighbouring county of Anjou, offering a wealth of discoveries, alternating between wine and subterranean (or troglodyte) sights. Either stick to greenways down by the Loire, or choose the higher, more demanding route on small country roads, through vine-covered slopes, ending with a dramatic arrival at Saumur Castle.

25 Saumur / St-Rémy-la-Varenne

30 km

1 h 59 min

I begin

On this Loire à Vélo stage, enjoy some of the most spectacular, luminous stretches along the Loire. The route hugs the south bank of the river, allowing you to appreciate close-up remarkable buildings made in the gorgeous local tufa limestone, including the major church at Cunault and St-Maur Abbey. All told, a magical but easy stage.

26 St-Rémy-la-Varenne / la Daguenière

13 km

53 min

I begin

For this Loire à Vélo stage, cross to the Loire’s north bank through Anjou, cycling through former marshes turned into rich agricultural lands in medieval times, when the raised levées were built. Pick up local produce on the way! At La Daguenière, either head for Anjou’s capital city, Angers, via Trélazé’s former open slate mines, or follow the Loire to the dramatic confluence with the Maine River at Bouchemaine.

27 La Daguenière / Angers

16 km

1 h 02 min

I begin

This Loire à Vélo stage to Anjou’s capital takes you through the startling landscapes of the former slate mines of Trélazé. Then enjoy crossing the Authion River via a little cable ferry. This makes for a fun way to reach the enticing city of Angers, spread across both banks of the Maine River. An equally enjoyable alternative route takes you to Bouchemaine via the Loire-side town of Les Ponts-de-Cé (see stage La Daguenière >Bouchemaine).

11 Le Lion-d'Angers / Angers

29 km

2 h 01 min

I begin

After the picture-postcard equestrian grounds at L’Isle Briand, with its château and national stud farm, plus the Mayenne and Oudon confluence, you cross the low-lying ends of several river valleys that form one of the most exceptional areas of wetland in Europe, going right up to Angers, a famed historic Plantagenet city. Up to that town’s Pont Jean Moulin bridge, the rural atmosphere remains almost untouched.

10 Château-Gontier / Le Lion-d'Angers

34 km

2 h 17 min

I begin

Travelling along the Mayenne Valley, each meander reveals new delights to spur you on, with a château here and a mill there, or then a waterside village with a river port. Before the town of Le Lion-d’Angers, you’ll get a notion of the importance of the equestrian professions around here as you pass the Domaine de l’Isle-Briand, home to a world-class national stud farm that hosts equestrian events.

9 Laval / Château-Gontier

35 km

2 h 19 min

I begin

The start of this stage affords fine views of the town of Laval and its two châteaux. The nine-arched railway viaduct here also has a footbridge open to cyclists, and links the Mayenne River’s east bank to Laval’s town centre and its river port. South of Laval, admire the well-known Abbaye du Port Salut (historically connected with popular Port-Salut cheese) before discovering more of the natural beauty of the Mayenne River.

8 Mayenne / Laval

36 km

2 h 24 min

I begin

After visiting the historic town of Mayenne, with its castle dating back in part to Carolingian times, head south via the Mayenne Valley. This La Vélo Francette stage is well suited to families, following the riverside towpath in a lovely natural setting punctuated by lock-keepers’ houses and beautiful old homes. The town of Laval is a delight to walk around.

7 Domfront / Mayenne

50 km

2 h 58 min

I cycle often

The route leaves the southern Norman hilltop town of Domfront, taking you on a long stage going via roads and greenways beside the Varenne River up to the Mayenne River and on to Mayenne-town. Three remarkable sights on the Varenne are the mills of Moulin de Varenne, Moulin d’Ambloux and Pont des Planches. The village of Ambrières-les-Vallées offers a last view of the Varenne before you join the banks of the Mayenne. Works are in progress, but the signposts will guide you throughout the deviation.

6 Flers / Domfront

23 km

1 h 30 min

I begin

You change cycle track after Flers station. Crossing the outskirts of town, near La Selle-la-Forge, at the place named Fumeçon, a greenway’s compact track takes you down a gentle slope to the Varenne River, which you’ll get close to many times along this stage. The local heritage recalls the area’s mining past as well as its agricultural past. Take it all in on what is a peaceful stretch for cyclists.

5 Pont d'Ouilly / La Roche d'Oëtre / Flers

31 km

2 h 05 min

I cycle a lot

This demanding but grandiose alternative stage is worth the effort involved in cycling up La Roche d’Oëtre. From its 118m-high summit, enjoy grand views of the Rouvre’s wooded gorges, listed as an Espace Naturel Sensible (an environmentally protected area), set in the heart of Europe’s oldest mountain range. To reach the château and station at Flers, continue along pleasant, quiet, but steep roads through traditional Norman farmlands.

3 Thury-Harcourt / Pont d'Ouilly

23 km

1 h 37 min

I cycle often

La Vélo Francette’s stage through the heart of La Suisse Normande’s hills is very nature-friendly. Cyclists follow the meanders and dramatic granite forms of the gorges of the Orne Valley, in part on a greenway, while canoeists appreciate the river itself. The waterside villages, such as Thury-Harcourt, Clécy and Pont-d’Ouilly, provide delightful stops and riverside terraces along the way.

2 Caen / Thury-Harcourt

28 km

1 h 52 min

I begin

Once you’ve gone round Caen’s marina, explore the city via its ‘green lungs’, notably the racecourse and a special Espace Naturel Sensible, an environmentally protected area. Continue south beside the Orne River, taking the greenway into La Suisse Normande’s hills. This portion runs along a former railway line, offering an exceptionally peaceful route, a delight for nature lovers.

1 Ouistreham / Caen

16 km

1 h 02 min

I begin

Start at Ouistreham, the Normandy ferry port north of Caen, its strand renowned as Sword Beach, its codename during the Allied liberation of France that began on D-Day, 6 June 1944. Take the towpath-turned-greenway beside the Canal de l’Orne; pay homage to the British airborne troops who took the vital crossing nicknamed Pegasus Bridge the night before D-Day. A cycle track leads on to the marina in central Caen. This city boasts splendid buildings dating back to William the Conqueror’s reign, while the Mémorial de Caen is a major war museum.