The Gironde estuary and its vineyards by bike

Between Royan and Bordeaux by bike

This enticing section of the Canal des 2 Mers à Vélo cycle route transports you from the seaside atmosphere of the postwar resort of Royan to the splendid Ancien Régime quays of Bordeaux. The route running beside the Gironde Estuary is not completely laid out at time of writing, so you have to deal with a few stretches of small, rough, steep tracks for the moment. Or opt for the easier provisional link leading south of the Gironde Estuary via Lacanau, on to Bordeaux.

J. Damase

Carrelets and villages on the water

All along the route you’ll find huts built on stilts. Known as ‘carrelets’, they’re used for fishing. Talmont-sur-Gironde, Meshers-sur-Gironde and Mortagne-sur-Gironde make for pleasant stops for a picnic or a visit.

Caves above the Gironde

In Meshers-sur-Gironde, you won’t want to miss these caves suspended “between sky and water”. Carved out by erosion in the limestone cliffs, they overlook the Gironde. Used since prehistoric times, they served as grain stores, refuges for Protestants, open-air cafés... and even hideouts for smugglers!

Le Canal des 2 mers à vélo - J. Damase

The Citadel of Blaye

The Citadel of Blaye is a defensive complex designed by Vauban to protect Bordeaux from maritime invasions. Comprising Fort Pâté (on the eponymous estuary island) and Fort Médoc (on the left bank of the estuary), this trio was built under Louis XIV and is now listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site under the name ‘Verrou Vauban’.

Tailor-made itineraries

1 Royan / Talmont-sur-Gironde / Mortagne-sur-Gironde

37 km

2 h 34 min

I cycle often

Past Royan’s port, this stage begins at Royan’s Grande Conche Beach. Head along the seafront on a lovely shaded cycle path. The cycle route then threads between tracks and quiet roads to Meschers-sur-Gironde before reaching Talmont-sur-Gironde, an astonishing look-out post onto the estuary and part of the association of Les Plus Beaux Villages de France. Caillaud Cliff and the square fishing nets suspended above the waters add to the atmosphere. The stage continues via quiet, sometimes steep roads and tracks to Mortagne-sur-Gironde, a port well protected from the temperamental Gironde.

2 Mortagne-sur-Gironde / Vitrezay

25 km

1 h 40 min

I cycle often

From Mortagne-sur-Gironde to Vitrezay, the scenery is characterized by great expanses of marshes backed by hills covered with vineyards and crops. A number of little marinas along here provide access to the Gironde Estuary and offer places to pause.

3 Vitrezay / Blaye

39 km

2 h 37 min

I cycle often

Reaching the port of Vitrezay, you leave the département (French county) of Charente-Maritime, continuing on the Canal des 2 Mers à Vélo cycle route into the département of Gironde. Bypassing the electricity-producing nuclear power station of the Blayais, a beautiful greenway leads to Blaye and its citadel designed by the great 17th-century engineer Vauban. The citadel and other forts along the Gironde remind you of warring times. A small ferry crosses the estuary from Blaye to Lamarque.

4 Blaye / Bordeaux

50 km

3 h 19 min

I cycle often

From Blaye, cross the Gironde Estuary by ferry to Lamarque, in the midst of the Médoc, a peninsula packed with some of the greatest wine territories (or appellations) in the world. A provisional route takes you along quiet roads through the Médoc’s vines, fields and heaths to the edge of the city of Bordeaux, at Blanquefort. From here, a cycle track leads you gently to the heart of the great wine town. Bordeaux is a splendid, dynamic city, its exceptional architectural heritage listed as a World Heritage Site. Amidst its grand quarters, sample its many lively, trendy cultural and gastronomic offerings.