From Lyon to Avignon by bike on ViaRhôna

After buzzing Lyon, this ViaRhôna stage leads through the towns of Grigny and Givors, on to St-Romain-en-Gal. The historic importance of navigation is clearer here than anywhere else along the Rhône. Museums at St-Romain-en-Gal and Vienne give a good picture of the river’s rich history, from classical to contemporary times. A provisional link goes along the Rhône’s west bank, on very busy roads. Best take a train from Lyon to Givors.

This remarkable ViaRhôna stage offers a great variety of landscapes. From Vienne, once an ancient capital of Roman Gaul, to the nature reserve of L’île au Beurre, bearing witness to the Rhône’s wild side, via steeply terraced vineyards, including the prestigious Côte-Rôtie, and the first major orchards along the Rhône Valley, this stage will delight those interested in history, nature and gastronomy. You follow greenways for almost the entire length, joining a road to enter Sablons.

This ViaRhôna stage runs between steep vineyards and dense orchards. Heading south from Lyon, this is the first ViaRhôna stage to enter the rugged Ardèche, a beautiful département (or French county) on the mighty Rhône’s west flank. Here, the tamed river supports orchards, market gardens and vines producing top-class Saint-Joseph wines. Arriving at the town of Tournon-sur-Rhône, follow the provisional signage to continue along the route.

This easy ViaRhôna stage offers a gentle introduction to the South of France. There’s much to enchant: pretty villages in typical southern style; a surprising branch of the Rhône encircling La Roche-de-Glun; and biodiversity. The big town of Valence presages Provence to the south, with its colourful markets, shaded gardens and historic quarters, including pedestrianized area. This stage goes along greenways, except through Valence.

After a halt at Valence’s southern river port of L'Epervière, ViaRhôna leads you back onto the western, Ardèche bank of the Rhône. The Ardèche is known for its exceptional caves, archaeological sites, characterful villages, châteaux and nature reserves. From La Voulte-sur-Rhône, you can discover rugged central Ardèche by taking the Dolce Via route up the Eyrieux Valley. Continuing south along ViaRhôna, cross the Printegarde Nature Reserve to reach Le Pouzin after another short trip across the Rhône into the Drôme.

ViaRhôna cycle route continues south towards Cruas. Heritage sites stand out in this area. Cruas Abbey, with its extraordinary medieval architecture, contrasts greatly with the industrial heritage around here, marked by cement-making works. An intriguing link between old and new is provided by the recent Himalayan-style footbridge at Rochemaure, built using the pillars of the Vieux Pont, an historic bridge over the Rhône.

Leaving Châteauneuf-du-Rhône, cycle beside branches of the Rhône and pass through historic towns: Viviers, with its medieval spirit; Bourg-Saint-Andéol, its treasures including a rare sculpture of a Mithraic deity; and Pont-Saint-Esprit. This ViaRhôna stage is packed with heritage treasures, especially religious ones, including cathedrals, chapels and grand clerical residences. Those who love history as well as nature can enjoy their fill. The route takes you along portions of greenway and of quiet roads.

A provisional stretch of the ViaRhôna route has been signposted south from Lapalud, following the Rhône’s east bank through the county of Vaucluse. Cross the agricultural plain to the Canal de Donzère. Next, the route squeezes between the Rhône and parallel motorway, with links indicated to the medieval villages of Mondragon, Mornas and Piolenc and the town of Orange with its grand Roman remains. Fancy a dip in a lake? Try Les Girardes or Li Piboulos before continuing south along a Rhône-side greenway. End gently at the Provençal village of Caderousse, its dykes built to protect it from flooding by the tempestuous Rhône.

This stage combines a gourmet break (Châteauneuf-du-Pape and its famous vineyards), nature discovery (numerous river islands punctuate the route) and history. Leaving the small village of Caderousse, follow the cycle path along the dike, then the Revestidou lake. ViaRhôna then joins the banks of the Rhone counter-canal as a greenway, offering fine views of the Château de Montfaucon, Châteauneuf-du-Pape and the Tour de l'Hers. The route continues along small roads lined with plane trees on the Ile de l'Oiselay as far as the Pont des Arméniers, before returning to the greenway on the Ile de l'Oiselay, a shaded island of greenery. After a few kilometers, the itinerary joins the banks of the Rhône, to cross it by a superb suspended footbridge, facing the Sauveterre dam. Inaugurated in autumn 2023, this structure provides access to Avignon via Barthelasse Island, Europe's largest river island. The arrival is "papal", offering a breathtaking view first of Villeneuve les Avignon, then of the city of the Popes, the majestic Rhône, the famous Pont d'Avignon, and Mont Ventoux on the horizon. This is one of the most beautiful views of Avignon!